A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1

Lange 1 is the A. Lange & Söhne line, from the Saxon manufacture in Glashütte, defined by its off-centre dial and outsize date. Presented in 1994, shortly after the brand was revived, it marks the beginning of Lange's modern history. The dial layout follows the golden ratio: the centres of the hours and minutes, the small seconds and the outsize date form an isosceles triangle, so no indication overlaps another. The time display sits to the left, while the date aperture and the AUF/AB power-reserve indicator are on the right.

The Lange 1 models covered here are men's watches with hand-wound movements and a 72-hour power reserve. The calibres are L901.0 in the classic Lange 1, L901.2 in the Grand Lange 1, L901.5 in the Lange 1 Moonphase and L141.1 in the Lange 1 Time Zone. The plates are made of untreated German silver decorated with Glashütte ribbing, the balance cock is hand-engraved, and the movement can be seen through a transparent caseback.

Within the line, size is the first choice. The classic case measures 38.5 mm — for example the Lange 1 Blue Dial with a blue dial and the Luminous White Gold 38.5mm with a black one, both in white gold. The Grand Lange 1 is larger, at 41.5 and 42 mm: the Lange 1 Yellow Gold in yellow gold and the Grand Lange 1 A Boutique Edition in pink gold. The next question is whether you want an additional function: the Lange 1 Moonphase shows the phases of the moon, the Lange 1 Time Zone a second time zone. The line has been made in white, yellow and pink gold, as well as in platinum.