Audemars Piguet Millenary

Millenary is a line from Audemars Piguet, the Swiss manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. The collection appeared in 1995 and is recognised by the shape of its case: a horizontal oval whose geometry was inspired by the architecture of the Roman Colosseum. Its second hallmark is the off-centre dial: the main dial is shifted away from the centre, and the space it leaves is given over to the movement.

The whole line follows this geometry. In calibre 4101 the balance and escapement are inverted — moved to the dial side — so the regulating organ can be watched at work without taking the watch off. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage, the edges are bevelled and polished, and the 22-carat gold winding rotor is engraved with the coats of arms of the Audemars and Piguet families. The transparent sapphire caseback offers a second view, from the movement side.

The various versions show how the collection evolved. The basic form is the classic 45 mm oval in pink gold with calibre 3120. The Millenary 4101 with its inverted calibre has the largest case. The Star Wheel 125th Anniversary departs from the oval for a round case and features wandering, or jumping, hours on three sapphire discs, limited to 75 pieces. The Maserati Dual Time in platinum adds a second time zone, date, day/night indicator and power-reserve indicator, limited to 90 pieces. The Quincy Jones is a steel version with a dark PVD coating. The women's side of the line consists of gem-set models: the Ladies Diamonds MOP Rose Gold with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond bezel, and the Piano Forte in 18-carat white gold.

Three criteria help with the choice: case size, from 39.5 to 47 mm; character — classic, gem-set or avant-garde; and the set of complications. If the oval does not suit you, the brand also offers the octagonal Royal Oak and its sports version the Royal Oak Offshore, the round Code 11.59, the classic Jules Audemars and the separate Royal Pop line.