Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is the brand's diving line, produced since 1953. It was conceived as an instrument for underwater use, yet it is worn every day — on holiday and with a suit alike.

The watches share the same construction: an Oyster case with a screw-down caseback and Triplock crown; a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute scale for timing dives; large hour markers and hands coated with luminescent material — Chromalight, with its long-lasting blue glow, on modern generations; and an in-house self-winding calibre.

The generations differ in size, bezel and movement. The five-digit 16610 in steel and 16613 in steel and yellow gold have a 40 mm case, a bezel with an aluminium insert and calibre 3135 with a 48-hour power reserve. The 116610LN, 116610LV, 116613LB and 116618LB generation stayed at 40 mm with calibre 3135 but gained a Cerachrom ceramic bezel. The latest references have a 41 mm case: the no-date 124060 with calibre 3230 and the Submariner Date 126610LN, 126610LV, 126613LB, 126613LN, 126618LN and 126619LB with calibre 3235. Both calibres feature the Chronergy escapement, a blue Parachrom hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve.

Steel cases are stainless steel — on modern generations Rolex's own Oystersteel (904L alloy). The classic combination is a black dial with a black bezel. The green versions are known as the "Starbucks" and the "Hulk". Yellow Rolesor (steel with 18 ct yellow gold) comes with a blue or black dial. Full-gold cases are in 18 ct yellow or white gold; the white gold 126619LB has a black dial and blue bezel. Some gold and two-tone models have diamond-set hour markers.

The choice comes down to three questions. Do you need a date? Which size and bezel: 40 mm with aluminium, 40 mm with ceramic, or 41 mm? Which metal? For greater depths, Rolex also offers the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea diving lines.

Years of production range from the 1990s to 2026. Each listing gives the reference, calibre, power reserve, case size, dial colour, condition and what is included.