Blancpain Le Brassus

Le Brassus is Blancpain's line of complicated mechanical watches; the Swiss manufacture was founded in 1735. It is named after the village in the Vallée de Joux where the brand has had its production since 1983 and where its complicated calibres are assembled. Within the range, this is the line in which the manufacture shows the limits of its technical capabilities.

The series' signature complication is the carrousel. The carriage holding the balance rotates, averaging out the effect of gravity on timekeeping, but unlike a tourbillon it receives energy not through the escape wheel but via a separate gear train — which delivers it more evenly over a long power reserve. In 2008 Blancpain released the first movement with a one-minute flying carrousel and a hundred-hour power reserve. Alongside it the line offers a one-minute tourbillon, perpetual calendar, equation of time and minute repeater.

The design is conservative: a round precious-metal case, a double-stepped “double pomme” bezel, leaf-shaped hands and a white dial — either smooth Grand Feu enamel or stepped, with an aperture revealing the carriage. One example is the Leman Platinum Tourbillon Split Second Chronograph 38mm, reference 2189F 3427 63B: a 38 mm platinum case, one-minute tourbillon and split-seconds flyback chronograph, the 386-part manufacture calibre 23F9A with a platinum winding rotor, sapphire crystals front and back, and a 40-hour power reserve.

Four criteria help with the choice: the set of complications, case material, diameter and dial type — they determine both how the watch sits on the wrist and its price. These are classically styled men's watches. If complicated mechanics are not needed, the brand's core classic line is Villeret; other collections include Fifty Fathoms, Leman, L-Evolution and Air Command.